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What does a skin barrier routine look like?

Updated

Fewer products, all of them gentle. Set strong actives aside, wash with a gentle cleanser [2], use a fragrance-free moisturizer [2][4] and wear sunscreen by day [6]. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says to stop any product that stings, burns or tingles, because it is irritating your skin [1]. Then bring actives back one at a time.

Signs your routine is too much

  • Stinging, burning or tingling when a product goes on. The AAD reads these as irritation [1].
  • Redness and irritation after exfoliating. The AAD warns that over-exfoliating can do this [3].
  • Peeling or new sensitivity with retinoids, retinol or benzoyl peroxide. The AAD says these products can make skin more sensitive or peel [3].
  • Several new products at once. The AAD says using several anti-aging products at the same time can irritate your skin [1].

The routine

StepMorningEveningWhat the sources say
CleanseGentle cleanserGentle cleanserWash with a gentle cleanser. Keep showers to 5 to 10 minutes, in warm water [2]
MoisturizeFragrance-free creamFragrance-free creamCreams and ointments add more moisture than lotions [2]. Apply after washing to trap water [8]
ProtectBroad-spectrum SPF 30 or higherNoneThe AAD’s sunscreen advice [6]. Mineral sunscreen for sensitive skin [5]
ActivesSet asideSet asideStop what stings, burns or tingles [1]

Small habits that help

The AAD’s dry skin tips go beyond products [2]:

  • Pat dry. Gently pat skin with a clean towel. Rubbing can irritate very dry skin [2].
  • Less cleanser. Use enough to remove dirt and oil, but not so much that you see a thick lather [2].
  • Skip harsh soaps and fragrance. Some products, such as deodorant soaps, are too harsh for dry, sensitive skin. Look for “fragrance-free”, since “unscented” products can carry chemicals that irritate [2].
  • Moisturize more than once. The AAD suggests applying moisturizer several times a day [2].

What to look for in a moisturizer

The skin’s outer layer holds water in, and moisturizers work on that layer in three ways [7]:

  • Humectants draw water into the outer layer. Examples are glycerin and hyaluronic acid [7].
  • Occlusives form a layer on top that slows water loss. Petrolatum and dimethicone are common ones [7].
  • Emollients fill the gaps between skin cells so skin feels smoother and softer [7].

Ceramides are among the lipids that sit between skin cells in the outer layer [7]. The AAD describes them as waxy lipids that help hydrate skin [4].

The AAD’s picks for dry skin include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, dimethicone, petrolatum and shea butter [2]. For sensitive skin, it suggests skipping products with alcohol, AHA or fragrance [4].

What to set aside

  • Exfoliating acids and scrubs. The AAD says scrubs may be too irritating for dry or sensitive skin [3].
  • Retinoids and retinol. They can make skin more sensitive or peel [3].
  • Benzoyl peroxide. Same AAD note [3].

If you use a prescription such as tretinoin, ask your prescriber before you pause it. Follow your prescriber’s instructions. Corneo schedules the rest.

Bringing actives back

Go one product at a time, so you can tell what caused a reaction. The AAD suggests a test spot for new products: apply twice a day for 7 to 10 days on a quarter-sized area, such as the bend of your elbow [9]. If a reaction appears, wash it off and do not use it again [9].

If dryness continues after these steps, the AAD says it is time to see a board-certified dermatologist [2].

What Corneo does

Barrier SOS pauses every active in your routine for 7 days and leaves a gentle cleanser, a ceramide moisturizer and a mineral sunscreen. Your retinoid schedule pauses too and picks up where it left off, and you can end Barrier SOS early. Audit your whole shelf.

FAQ

How long should actives stay aside?

The AAD sources here do not set a number of days. Corneo’s Barrier SOS runs 7 days, then your full routine comes back on its own. That is Corneo’s pacing, not a prescription.

Is hyaluronic acid OK during this time?

The AAD lists hyaluronic acid among moisturizing ingredients for dry skin [2][4]. It draws water into the skin rather than exfoliating [7].

Do I still need sunscreen if I stop my actives?

Yes. The AAD says to apply sunscreen every day on skin not covered by clothing if you will be outside [5]. It recommends SPF 30 or higher [6].

Sources

  1. How to maximize results from anti-aging skin care products (American Academy of Dermatology)
  2. Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin (American Academy of Dermatology)
  3. How to safely exfoliate at home (American Academy of Dermatology)
  4. How to pick the right moisturizer for your skin (American Academy of Dermatology)
  5. Sunscreen FAQs (American Academy of Dermatology)
  6. How to select a sunscreen (American Academy of Dermatology)
  7. Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: a review. Clin Med Res. 2017
  8. Moisturizer: why you may need it if you have acne (American Academy of Dermatology)
  9. How to test skin care products (American Academy of Dermatology)

Corneo is not medical advice. If something stings, spreads or does not settle, talk to a clinician.